Day Six (08/14)
Casa Benito Juarez
A visit to the Casa de Benito Juarez was on our list. The house is located just down the street from the Casa Catrina hotel. It had most of the original furnishings and a room full of printing presses where they printed flyers as part of the revolution.
The Dining Room
Kitchen work area
We also visited the Textile Museum, which was excellent, but they didn’t allow any photographing. However, here is a sneak peek. They had just opened so we were almost alone. The displays were done beautifully.
From the museum, we went shopping. It was time to make a purchase that would remind us of our visit to Oaxaca. I wanted a new shirt that was typical of some of the fine textile patterns and colors found in this region. We both ended up finding just the right choice for our personal taste.
John was set on having a new look to our bedroom so we found an excellent shop located on one of the side streets. They had napkins, table coverings, placemats, bed spreads, and of course pillow shams. As you can see, placemats and pillow shams came back with us. Pastels and natural cotton colors were our selection.
King Pillow Shams
Dinner on the 14th was at Gozobi Restaurant and bar…where else but the roof-top. By now I was getting the hang of climbing stairs. My concept (Take your time and you will eventually get there).
This terrace filled up quickly with an early dinner crowd.
As we listened to live guitar music far above the street, the twilight crept slowly over the hills. Two margaritas for me, two beers for John and we shared a bowl of guacamole as the darkness of night slowly descended on Oaxaca.
There was only one size guacamole – Big.
John had Ravoles con Picadillo in a cream sauce
I ordered the Suprema de Pollo con Quesos with local squash
All total, dinner came to $760 MX. The exchange rate was running about $20 pesos to the US dollar.
Day Seven (08-15)
In 1987 we stayed at the El Presidente Hotel at #300 -5 de Mayo.
It is now a member of the Quinta Real national hotel chain. However, before it was a hotel it was a convent. It hadn’t changed that much, except it is now very expensive to stay there compared to 1987 prices.
Where the nuns did their laundry
There was not a single person at the pool on a warm day…humm.
Our large room in those days was on the second level and had a window that looked into the main nave of the chapel. We also had a nice view of the swimming pool. Everyone on staff was efficient, friendly, and very helpful 30 years ago.
But the atmosphere was different this time around. There was an air of snobbishness and a feeling of class separation.
Interior restaurant courtyard view
John is waiting for his beet salad
We enjoyed a nice lunch by one of the garden courtyards. Although, the service was slow and the staff appeared very aloof, we still managed to enjoy ourselves and remember when.
Sliced beet and cheese salad with peanuts and Balsamic dressing
My Cheese Platter (Large enough for four) with roquefort, camembert, smoked gouda, goat cheese balls, Oaxacan string cheese, mozzarella, olives, sundried tomatoes and triangles of wheat toast.
The Rufino Tamayo Museum
Museums have always fascinated us with their connections to the past and the way that people lived long before our time. To see how they represented their life through artistic design and décor offers a glimpse of past humanity. Their pottery, their clothing (or the lack there of), the tools they used and the accessories they wore, are all a part of these fantastic and educational collections.
The magnificent Pre-Columbian art collection at the Rufino Tamayo Museum reminded us of the days when we used to live with Proctor Stafford, a collector of Pre-Columbian art, at his Tuscan villa in the Outpost Estates in Los Angeles. We used to dust off many of his rotating works of art scattered throughout the house. The LA County Museum of Art inherited most of his huge collection.
Stone bowls and carved stone figures
Carved heads and a collection of dogs
The Colima Dog
However, one particular Colima Dog made its way to a gallery in Santa Fe. Here is a twin.
We spotted the dog in the window of the gallery on Canyon Road years ago and asked the proprietor if it was from the Stafford collection. She was surprised that we recognized the dog and knew Mr. Stafford. At $8,000, we refrained from purchasing the dog, but patted him on the head and wished him a happy home.
A life-size anatomically correct figure amazingly preserved
Mysterious and haunting eyes of the life-size face carved in stone
The museum collection was displayed in well lighted and colorful cases. We had formed a great appreciation for these pieces of history having been acquainted with pieces just like them on a daily bases for three years. (1973-1976)
The Museum of Contemporary Art de Oaxaca.
Hours: Open Mon. thru Sat. at 10 am Closed on Tuesdays – Open Sunday at 11 am to 3 pm.
The Lion Fountain at Rufino Tamayo Museum
Painted plywood cutout artistic sculptures
The charming entry garden with its fountain of lions and lush tropical plantings made an excellent place to relax and organize our self-guided tour. Our INAPAM senior cards came in handy for free entry at most all of the museums.
A sampling of creative contemporary art.
A bicycle built for two
A tribal jungle scene?? Your guess is as good as mine.
We returned on our final evening to the same restaurant where we had dined on the first evening. Once again, we were the only table in the charming courtyard by the fountain. Our waiter remembered we liked the L.A. Cetto Nebbiola PV wine, and the guitarist was in good form that evening. We shared a Cesar salad for two, which the waiter prepared at our tableside. According to John (the chef) the “petit cinema” was perfectly executed with all the right ingredients (mashed anchovies included). We both had the Camerones Coco on the stalk of rosemary with a large slice of pineapple. ($1500 MX) total. No postre (dessert) was needed.
The hotel arranged for a taxi pick up the following morning and by 8:40 am we were winging our way back to Merida on Volaris Airlines; contented as two little mice with a wheel of good cheese.
That rounds out the last post on Oaxaca and the end of our visit to another area of enchantment in southern Mexico. We didn’t venture out of the city, but there are many places to go and things to see not far out of town.
The Monte Alban Ruins
The textile rug weavers in Mitla:
The women tend to the sheep, spin and dye the wool.
The men do most of the rug weaving
A sample of textile patterns in stone.
And much, much more. The state of Oaxaca is located on the western coast of southern Mexico.
Our next trip…Valladolid for New Year’s Eve.
D.G. Heath – Author and spouse John Johnson (1994)
( 2019 )
Tales from a Country Inn
D.G. Heath Mystery Collection – Vol. One
Double Martini – Web of Intrigue – Codes and Confessions
The Art of Imagination
D.G. Heath Mystery Collection – Vol. Two
A Person of Interest – Accent – Vortex
Adelaide Literary Magazine – Nov. 2016
Cappuccino – No Time for Tears
Coming this fall: 2019
D.G. Heath Mystery Collection – Vol. Three
The Viper’s Nest – Accidentally Complicit
Bedtime Stories and Other Tales